Edutainment > 36 Views of Green Island (10) - Wave and Kelp

Wave and Kelp
copyright Tom Kristensen, 2005

Tom Kristensen, born 1962, is a young artist from Australia who works in the tradition of Japanese woodblock printmaking. On this page, he writes about his latest print from the series "36 Views of Green Island ".

Here is the original text written by Tom Kristensen. Text and images are copyright protected and may not be used or distributed for other than private use without the prior consignment of the author/artist.

36 Views of Green Island

"These 36 views are presented in the Sosaku Hanga tradition: self-carved and hand printed, using Japanese tools, Japanese mulberry washi and traditional pigment colours. Each print is made from 4 to 6 blocks and printed in an edition of 25 copies."

Wave and Kelp - No. 10

"The ideal wave forms out at sea where the wind whips up the water surface. The wave grows as the wind blows. The wind may die down, but the swell will continue. As the wave approaches the shore it begins to meet resistance from the bottom. The drag below causes the face of the wave to steepen. When the crest of the wave begins to topple forward the wave breaks. Depending on the conditions, the wave may break slowly, or it may curl over, forming a tube.

The surfers who ride the waves at Green Island enjoy one of the best rides on the coast. The flat submerged granite shelf that projects from the south side of the island amplifies the energy of the swell as it wraps around the island. The waves grow steep and break evenly down the southern length of the island. This is known as a point break. The surf at Green Island is a left-handed break, since the waves tend to peak close to the island and run to the left. The quality of the waves will change throughout the day.

Enjoying a good surf depends upon reading the wind, the swell and the tide before you get wet. Sitting out there on your surfboard you need to read the waves to be in the right place at the right time. When the moment comes, paddle hard, stand up, fall off, and do it all again. Aside from the short bursts of activity, there are the quiet hours spent gazing out to sea."

Tom Kristensen
April 2005

Video Presentation of Tom Kristensen

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We produced a video with a short presentation of Tom Kristensen. Please click on the image or on the link to go to the video page.

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